Peace-building in Iran: intentions, perceptions and outcomes

For those of us taking part in FOR’s 5th Civilian Diplomacy Visit to Iran in December 2007, the aim was clear. We embarked on the trip with the clear message that we are against the warmongering of the Bush administration and wish to make positive contact with ordinary people in Iran, thus broadening and deepening the peace-building networks that already exist between individuals and groups in our respective countries.

Almost immediately our agenda was thrown into question by our guide, Saed. Whilst not doubting our good intentions, he reminded us that Iranians would ask what positive outcomes would come from our visit. He had perhaps already guessed what a difficult question this is for us. As peace campaigners we know that demonstrations, petitions, letters and lobbying often have seemingly little effect on official policy. So although all of us will, in our own way, use the positive perceptions we have gained of Iran and Iranians during our visit on our return, we are unable to promise that this will have any significant influence on those responsible for foreign policy in our countries. This was a humbling reminder.

As Westerners, at least some of us also embarked on this trip with a certain apprehension, caused by a combination of political and media propaganda, concern of friends and family, and just the fear of the unknown. How would the reality measure up against the images that are peddled in the West? If we were looking for evidence of an official hard line, this is certainly not difficult to come by. It can be seen on large billboards proclaiming ‘Down with America and Israel’, and in the graphic paintings outside what used to be the American Embassy. Friday prayers, too, is an opportunity to proclaim official resistance to the decadent West. Even the black-veiled women can seem alien and threatening when seen from a Western perspective.

Underneath the political posturing, however, we found that the greatest danger in this country is crossing the road! There is no lane system in Iranian cities, and cars, buses and motor-bikes weave in and out of one another with amazing dexterity. Zebra crossings exist, but mean nothing – so that pedestrians literally take their lives into their hands and cross wherever there is a space.

Apart from this we found Iranians to be open, friendly and extremely generous. Many of us had taken small gifts, post-cards and letters of greeting, which we gave people at every opportunity when engaging in conversation. These were gratefully received, but often the receivers felt that they should offer us something in return – an offer to share lunch, a ring or an extra gift thrown in with a purchase. Although people expressed a dislike of Bush (with which we concurred!), there was never any personal animosity but rather a friendly curiosity and a willingness to exchange information and opinions.

There is obvious pride in the richness of Persian culture, as evidenced in the museums and cultural sites we visited – including the Zoroastrian fire-temple, museums of art and archaeology in Tehran, and the tomb of Hafez in Shiraz. Nor is this culture standing still. We were amazed by the variety and creativity of the exhibits in the contemporary art museum in Tehran.

On the whole our visit felt a bit like an ancient mosaic including brilliant and varied colours, but with many pieces missing. We were all too aware that we were just scraping the surface, that many aspects of society remained a mystery to us, and many questions unanswered. Conversations were often snatched and limited due to lack of language on our side. One thing was clear: this is a society full of surprises and contradictions. Women fully draped in black walked side by side with smart young women with tightly-fitting manteaus, plenty of make-up and bright head-scarves. During our visit we met with some people from the Christian community, Zoroastrians and a Buddhist. We also met with plenty of professional women – medical students, students of archaeology, teachers and journalists. Conversations also revealed, however, how hard it is to be part of a minority and that there can be consequences if people step out of line – e.g. by advocating freedom of speech: the paper of one of the journalists we met had been closed down because of its outspoken views.

Materialism is everywhere in evidence – in the constantly ringing mobile phones, the smart clothes in some Tehran shops, smart motor-bikes and gadgets. We were told that the regime fear above all a ‘velvet revolution’ – but maybe this is already present in the population, particularly in the younger generation who have access to Western culture through the internet and satellite TV and whose outlook on life is different from their parents who were involved in the revolution.

Looking towards the end of our visit what will the outcomes be? There are some definite links we will follow up with individuals and groups – especially with members of the Society for the Victims of Chemical Weapons whom we met at the Peace Museum. Other links, exchanged during chance conversations on the street or when people visited us in the hotel, may bear fruit and help us to expand networks. All of us plan to spread the word on our return about the generous people and rich culture we have encountered. There are specific campaigns that we can support too, like the campaign of a million signatures. Above all, our own perceptions have been changed for ever. Iran will now be permanently linked in our minds with the warmth of human contact and memories of individuals. This will help us to be messengers of peace wherever we go.